Posted by fernando in
Sweets
0
comments
Where in your homeEvery great cook starts somewhere, and mastery arrives to those who are willing to try new recipes and make some mistakes. See what happens when you treat your kitchen
recipe
The stated goal of recipe testing at Cook's Illustrated is to 'investigate the fundamental principles of cooking' so that readers can become better cooks. Indeed, the folks at Cook's Illustrated's testing division, America's Test Kitchens, believe that good cooking is based on objective technique -- the right way to sauté or the best way to cook a pot roast.
Armed with a zeal for accurate instructions and for trying new foods, I eagerly anticipated testing recipes for America's Test Kitchens. With excitement I opened the email from Cook's Illustrated and discovered that I would be testing Foolproof Fudge
The Oxford Companion to Food describes fudge as a confection of milk, sugar and butter boiled to the soft ball stage and then beaten until it acquires a smooth, creamy consistency. The Companion also suggests that fudge is a favorite for home sweet-makers as it is simple and easily flavored.
Not only is fudge a favorite of the home confectioner, it is a staple sold by merchants in tourist locales. My dad envisioned spending his retirement like this: he would offer samples of fudge on the street of a picturesque tourist town in New Mexico or Colorado, while my mother would be back in the candy kitchen whipping up the flavor du jour. Clearly, my dad did not recall my mom's bleak attempts at fudge-making. She would end up with grainy looking clumps of seized-up chocolate that were inedible. This is my fudge legacy; to my mother's credit, her gumbo-making legacy is notable.
Chocolate is very sensitive to rapid temperature changes, and can mutate from smooth and creamy to grainy and chunky -- a change called "seizing." Seized chocolate has broken down to its basic elements of cocoa, sugar and fat, rendering it unusable for candy. However, seized chocolate is good for my favorite default use of failed sugar recipes: Apply your mistake directly to vanilla ice cream.
Given the sensitivity of chocolate, I do not cook with it much. And like many cooks,
Now that I've created a fudge mountain out of a recipe molehill, how did my test go?
The ingredients were simple: semisweet chocolate chips, unsweetened chocolate, baking soda and sweetened condensed milk, salt, vanilla extract and walnuts. The 2 ounces of unsweetened chocolate I zipped through my small food processor as a shortcut to its status of "finely chopped," and combined it with the chocolate chips and baking soda.
I followed the instructions as precisely as I was able, heating the condensed milk with a dash of salt on the stove, but removing it before it turned golden because its consistency was beginning to look foamy and it was becoming clumpy. Here, I suspected, was where my mother's fudge had gone wrong.
After removing the milk from the heat, I began stirring in the chocolates. I was concerned that I would have problems stirring the melting chocolate so that it didn't seize. However, since the pan was not over the heat, there was no sudden temperature change and the melt went smoothly. I was beginning to think that maybe I
I continued stirring for four or five minutes and added the walnuts, which offer the perfect relief to the rich, sweet creaminess of the fudge. I stirred some more, hoping that the thickening of the fudge was a good sign.
Finally, the fudge reached the consistency recommended in the recipe, that of stiff cookie dough. After pressing the fudge into a pan and cooling it for several hours in the refrigerator, I reached the verdict: This really was a foolproof fudge recipe. I would not hesitate to recommend it to the novice cook or to an experienced confectioner.








